Round is gen1 rectangle is 2nd

No problem. Glad you got it solved.

Or put it in a tree. Often a tree mount is a better option then cutting down half your yard. If you work out the hardware on the ground you can probably find a local arborist to mount it in a tree for around $1000.

Realistically 2x or more the distance back for 1x the height of obstacles. So a 100ft tree 200-300 feet away.

Can't really help you there. I am in Olympia

Get cat6 double jacketed shielded direct burial cable. https://www.ebay.com/itm/163850836721

An injector. dishypowa, McCown selectable. Or this one on amazon www.amazon.com/Passive-Injector-Protection-Developed-pinout/dp/B0BX74T2T5

Where are you located?

Yes the reolink power adapter 52v 2.88a is good for 300ft. You will also need an injector like dishypowa or a selectable McCown. If those aren't in stock I'd try the new brand yaosheng 150w dishy V2 available on amazon.

150ft is the max you can go with the stock power supply in the AP. You can get a power injection pcb with starlink power pin out and passive inject it with higher voltage based on cable length.

starlinktree.com Washington, Oregon, Idaho. gotaclearview.com Arizona, Nevada, California. Price is is between $1500 and $2500 for either. We can extend the cable to just about any distance from the router to the mounting location on all versions of starlink gen1 gen2 and business highpower. The dishy is grounded at the tree base at the injector.

Did you ever get your starlink installed in your tree?

https://www.starlinkcommunityforums.com/forum/installation-tips/don-t-chop-down-all-your-trees-just-use-one

Yes. Don't do it. You can't go more than 150 without injection

Let me know if there is any details I missed that you need help with.

A few thoughts on installs that you might want to address. Never extend past 150ft without power injection (stock SL router cannot handle it and neither can the braided cable) Starlink is not standard POE pinout. Gen 1 round and gen 2 squareish have different power requirements. Gen 1 needs close to 180w peak 56v. I have only run gen 1 stock power injector by putting 110 at the bottom in an enclosure and extended 150ft up with cat6 23awg. splicing into the dishy plug a few feet from the dishy. Gen 2 is more common and lower power. listed the power brick below. Run one cable spliced from SL router to the tree data port with a plastic jack. Run one from the power brick to the injector +- input. half the pairs for positive (center cable), half for negative (outer wire on reolinks bricks snipped and stripped plug wire). (crimp these well with a proper size inline wire splice) (shield your crimps with electrical tape) You can use the stock 150 cable for the vertical rather than splicing in cat that will be up above but either can work just be sure to keep your foil shielding and drip wire linked at the splice and touching and also grounded with metal jack on the injector end. google how to ground a network jack if you dont know. Dont ground loop. The SL router is grounded so you should make sure the cable coming from the house to the base of the tree or tower is not grounded at the end with the dishy or you are creating a ground loop that could damage your dishy or router even with a near strike. so use grounded network jacks on the tree side and ground your injector at the base of the tree and use ungrounded on the house to injector side. 3d printed pipe adapters make for a cleaner mount or you can just wipe out the Trex tape. use cat6 shielded outdoor direct burial cable. https://www.ebay.com/itm/163850836721 Use basic electrical tape for your spliced pairs and a few sealing half lapped then Scotch Mastic Tape 2228 half lapped past your previous then followed by another half lap of basic electrical. Take your time on these and make your laps clean. You can finger twist tight your splices if you are good at it or use these. https://www.amazon.com/DGZZI-Waterproof-Gel-Filled-Telephone-Connectors/dp/B07Q1L8GDT Make a loop and tape it flat to take any tension off your splices. Here is the power brick https://www.amazon.com/Reolink-Adapter-Compatible-RLN16-410-RLN8-410/dp/B07WL7R26Z Here are the injection port options. Both have been difficult to find reliably in stock. https://www.mccowntech.com/product/outdoor-gige-ethernet-poe-injector/ (needs proper pinout) 1 in upper left, one upper right, one lower left, one lower right. the 4 prongs in the middle leave empty. Put the brick line positive in the left power input and the negative in the right. (dont clamp jacket and dont leave copper sticking out, be flush) https://dishypowa.com/ (needs an enclosure) If the cable is in a place a dog or landscaper is likely to cut it, use electrical conduit up to the poe port. a J in the ground and some straight to the box with a few wall clamps.

Yes but you can't just extend the cable. The routers power supply is to weak to handle more then 150ft especially using that cat5 braided cable that is inside. You have to power inject it. I'll try and put together a more detailed list and application.

Dishypowa or McCown 800-GIGE-POE with REOLINK Power Adapter, 52V 2.88A. Run 2 300ft Cat6 to the dishy location 1 for power 1 for data. Power cable put 2 pair on negative 2 pair on Positive. Cut your dishy cable in half and put a T568B on the dishy side. Router side you will have to terminate T568B and put a rj45 coupler or just splice in and put a connector on the injector end. Snip the end off the reolink power pack and splice in the 2 positive pairs to the center positive wire Should be white and the 2 negative pairs to negative bare outer wire. Be sure to take your time and insolate each individual wire well with electrical tape as both the data and power splices will carry power to the injector. Make a loop that includes the splice and tape it so that there isnt a risk of it getting jerked apart and causing a short. Make sure your total data cable distance counting from router to dishy isnt over 330ft. If it has to be over 330ft you will have to work in a powered switch somewhere on the data cable.